We Went to Rome
Are you coming next time?
This is the last leg of my blog series on our fall trip to Italy. When it came to Rome, I was also low key skeptical due to a previous family trip. I thought the city was just a big crowd and a fountain. Mi dispiace. It’s the jaded New Yorker in me.
Getting there
After yet another bumpy and nauseating ferry ride, Sean and I returned to the Naples shore from Capri at dawn on a Sunday morning. We took a cab to Napoli Centrale, got a quick croissant and espresso at the cafe across the street and hopped on the train. After an hour we arrived at Roma Termini once more, got in another cab and drove to our airbnb in Trastevere.
Stay
Sean had previously stayed in Trastevere and enjoyed it’s proximity to amazing restaurants and quaint atmosphere. Our accommodations were the largest we had experienced during this trip (no loft!). There was also a laundry machine we utilized to clean everything in our bags before heading home.
To Do
Sean and I quickly dropped off our bags at the Airbnb and rushed back out to the streets for a cab. The Roma versus Monza game started soon and we needed to get our asses out!
We got to Stadio Olimpico in about 30 minutes and entered our gate mid-first half. The stadium was full and roaring. I had chills from the vibrations of the crowd. Was this the finals? No. A typical day watching some calcio. I can’t even imagine the World Series getting like this.
When you visit Italy you are surrounded by genuine leather. A lot of the stores and stands have the same offerings, so when we walked into Il Gancio I was happy to see only handmade, original pieces. I bought a belt for my friend and they customized the size it in person.
So now, we knew we had to hit the classics. I assumed traveling to Italy in October meant that we had avoided the crowds, but I was very wrong. We visited the Trevi Fountain three times, at different points of different days and no matter what it was mobbed. Not too mad because we did finally get a seat and a spot for a coin toss close by.
For the spirit, we booked early morning tickets to the Vatican museums. An espresso, a brisk 20 minute walk and a little rain while we waited for our entry time woke us up just fine.
I’m learning more and more that travel sites like Get Your Guide are actually incredibly helpful. We were able to skip the line easy (now sponsor me please)!
We also got vaguely scammed in Terazza del Pinico? Sean got me a Rose, they didn’t give any change, Sean lost $15. Well here’s a photo of me right before that because the park is really pretty and we had a good time!
Overall, Sean and I just like to walk. Rome is so big that outside of the tourist areas we were actually able to avoid a lot of crowds. We saw something new every day and plotted out the spots we’d go for our next trip.
To Eat
We ate a LOT of good food in Rome, so this is more of a highlights section.
Start at La Ciambella. They have an amazing, affordable, tasting menu that introduces you to the street food of Rome. Everything is meant to be eaten with your hands. We went in the afternoon as some of the only guests, and enjoyed our tasting menu with the wine pairing. Bonus: All woman team☆ﾟ.*･｡ﾟ
One afternoon we started standing in a line for Tonnarello because we kept seeing on “best” lists. But then a woman started walking up the line saying “THIS IS NOT TRADITIONAL!!” after she saw them delivering the already made food and that it was “yuppy trash.” That’s my type of woman! After Sean and I telepathically contemplated through two seconds of eye contact, we hopped out of line and asked her where to go. We were a little early to enjoy the awaiting wonders of Checco Er Carettiere’s original restaurant, so we went with the still incredible takeaway window on the other side of the building.
Nel Buco del Mulo “Donkey Punch” was a fun sandwich shop where they whipped up a delicious assortment of hot and cold sandwiches right in front of you. It definitely felt like we were in East Williamsburg.
Right around the corner from our Airbnb was Caffé del Cinque. You can tell this spot is a deep, local hangout. Reliable coffee, ongoing decent food throughout the day and drinks in the evening. I love all day spots like this.
A general tip if you stay in Trastevere: literally throw a rock! As long as they don’t have photos of the food and people aren’t haggling you to come inside, you will surely not be disappointed. You don’t need to wait in line for food. It’s all fantastic and pretty affordable.
One of my favorite moments on this trip was our first meal in Rome. We were sat next to an older, retired couple who talked to us our entire meal well after they finished. Now, I typically do not partake in this kind of exchange. I’m eating my food, mind your business. But as Sean and I were on our first vacation, I couldn’t help but engage in awe. I want that.
Reflecting on this trip has been so fun because we’re now seven months post-adventure, and it’s now “that time we went to Italy.” Traveling internationally with a partner was one of the greatest experiences of my life, and I am so excited to hop on many more planes, trains, and nauseating ferries with Sean. Thank you for a beautiful time <3