We Went to Capri
Reminder: This is a resort island
After exploring the fast paced Naples, we set sail to Capri — an island one hour west of Italy’s boot. I looked forward to downtime and ocean views.
Getting there
In the late morning, we left our Airbnb in Naples and carted our suitcases on the cobblestones of the inner city. We walked along the Via Nuova Marina and headed to the Porto di Napoli.
The night before we purchased tickets online, and I was honestly surprised at how expensive they were. I mean the Staten Island ferry is free. And the Fire Island ferry is 13 bucks. So €68 for both of us, one way, I was like, “ehh okayyyyy.” We’re on vacation, whatever.
The ferry was rough. Rocking side to side, zooming through the Golfo di Napoli, made me sick and anxious as hell. Thankfully it was only 70 minutes and I could be amused by tuning a group of young Irish guys cracking jokes in and out.
Once we safely got to shore, we decided to hike up to our next Airbnb. I would 100% recommend a cab, but I was being annoyingly frugal. Silver lining, we got our strength training in.
Stay
Our host’s dad came out to the street to meet us. I was delighted to see a grocery store right across the street because I was gaining a strong feeling we’d be going the cheap route for this leg of the trip.
Once we got to the villa, my breath was taken. Another lofted studio but with a terrace that overlooked the North beaches and ports of the island.
A memory I kind of erased from this stay was the proximity from our villa to a [you know that Con Edison building on 14th street that looks like the nuclear power plant Homer Simpson works at? One of those]. So unfortunately, the air was not as fresh as you’d imagine for a resort island (on the north side at least).
To eat
From the walk up we understood that we were not near any restaurants or places to pick food up. We immediately hopped over to the grocery store to pick up snacks, salad ingredients, wine and mineral water.
I was so excited to find a wedge of pecorino cheese with pistachios. It was SO GOOD.
Both restaurants we ate at were on the South side of the island — the bougie area. There were restaurants, bars, luxury brand stores (I was drooling over the Bialetti x Dolce & Gabbana collab) and more gorgeous views. We could tell it was the off season. This was really obvious at the restaurants we went to because they were massive but mostly empty.
I am going to be completely real. I know everything we ate at the following restaurants was good because I would remember at least that. But the only solid memory from our meals was how wide my eyes got when I saw a glass of wine costed €25.
Truthfully, I am salivating at these food photos. I remember eating that food s l o w l y. When we entered I could tell this place thrives from being a hot spot. Mainly by the wall of celebrity photos outside. Just like a John’s Pizza. There’s a disco attached that we were way too tired to stay up for.
For those of you who don’t know, Sean is in a citrus club. And Capri’s tourist shtick is lemons. So of course I had to make a reservation at a restaurant in a lemon orchard that produces GIANT lemons.
To do
I wanted to go on a boat so badly but the ferry really fucked me up.
Sean also really wanted to rent a moped and I was unconvinced. The roads are all inclined and curvy. The guy at the rental spot asked if we had ever ridden one before, to which Sean responded “I’ve ridden a bike?” The guy was then also unconvinced.
The beach clubs were closed and the water was too cold to swim (although I really wanted to).
So mainly, we just sat by the water, and read from The Four Agreements (which we read together most nights). Walked around the North shore, got gelato and relaxed our minds.
Do you also ever feel like something tastes better, an experience was more life changing or the outfit was cuter when it’s less expensive? Like half the satisfaction is knowing it was a good deal? I don’t know if you could tell, but feel like this mindset definitely affected our two days in Capri.
Two days was more than enough. I’d say you either go for a day trip from Napoli or a honeymoon based on the south side of the island. I’m sure the time of year had something to do with it, but I feel like it’s probably really overwhelming and particularly touristy during the summer.
To leave, we left the Airbnb at 6am and trudged down the hill to catch the ferry back to Napoli. Hey, things are easier downhill. The ride was just as rocky as it was on the way there, except this time I could sleep through it a bit more.
Next and last stop, Roma.
What do you want to hear about from our time in Rome!?
